When Peter Pastan and Ruth Gressner opened the first Pizzeria Paradiso in Dupont Circle in 1991, they introduced the DMV to authentic wood-fired, Neapolitan-style pizza. Revolutionary change often has unexpected side effects. On the plus side, Pizzeria Paradiso laid the groundwork for 2 Amys and Timber Pizza, which both serve superb wood-fired pizza that have eclipsed Paradiso’s primacy. Pastan and Gressner also opened Pandora’s box, where mediocre wood-fired Neapolitan pizza can now be found in just about any warehouse, farmhouse, henhouse, outhouse, or doghouse.1
Pizzeria Paradiso has become a local chainlet with three locations in DC and one in Maryland. Historically, Pizzeria Paradiso has been as passionate about their craft beer program as their pizza. In a decidedly uncorporate, unchainlike move, each Paradiso restaurant determines its own rotating beer, cider, and wine selections. While Paradiso could probably use their combined mass to procure volume discounts on beer and wine, it would require each location to serve the same drinks, removing individual-location autonomy. So, DishingPizza has high regard for the Pizzeria Paradiso business as a trailblazer with cool policies. However, DishingPizza has mixed feelings about Paradiso pizza.
The components above the crust are all top-notch — a pleasant San Marzano sauce, excellent mozzarella, and fresh toppings. However, the crust provokes cognitive dissonance. On one hand, the crust is marvelous – tangy, soft, well-charred. On the other hand, the middle of the pizza is soupy, floppy, and wet2 – unacceptable for such a vaunted pizzeria, especially one ambitiously named Paradiso, that charges a staggering $22 for its base 12″ pie.
DishingPizza recently visited Pizzeria Paradiso on a rainy weeknight. The restaurant was almost empty – a forboding sign, even on an off night. Possibly, the servers were sent home because DishingPizza was waited on by the dude in charge of the beverage program. A laid-back beer discussion ensued with this friendly brew connoisseur, who also brought out the food. DishingPizza has a soft spot for Pizzeria Paradiso and hopes it will ramp up its pizza game — the world is a better place because of Pizza Paradiso, so it needs to stay alive.
1 Not literally every warehouse, farmhouse, henhouse, outhouse, doghouse, but DishingPizza seldom finds the opportunity to use this Tommy Lee Jones quote from The Fugitive.
2 Natch, DishingPizza gobbled up the entire pizza since bringing home wood-fired pizza leftovers and reheating an already-soggy crust is too messy.
Pizzeria Paradiso
3282 M Street NW, Washington, DC (Georgetown)
2003 P Street NW, Washington, DC (Dupont Circle)
4850 Massachusetts Avenue NW, Washington, DC (Spring Valley)
4800 Rhode Island Avenue, Hyattsville, MD
Style: Neopolitan wood-fired
Pizza Quality: 🍕🍕
Overall experience: ⭐⭐⭐
Pie (12″): $22.00
Price per square inch: $0.19